Thursday, November 11, 2010
First Thanksgiving
Sunday, November 7, 2010
NO L's in Conservation
National Birding Stamp - part One
Friday, October 29, 2010
Whale Slaughter in perspective- Part 1
OVER 5 MILLION NEW HUMAN MOUTHS EACH MONTH. WHAT IS THE LARGEST CITY IN YOUR COUNTRY? OR PERHAPS MORE PRECISELY: WHAT CITY OF 5 MILLION WOULD YOU ADD THIS YEAR? WHERE WOULD YOU PUT IT AND WHAT HAPPENS TO THE ENVIRONMENT AND THE BEAUTIFUL NATIVE ANIMALS THAT USED TO BE THERE?
Take a look in the mirror today.
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Remembering good things
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Craziness in Louisiana part 1
As if the Big Mess were not enough… harassment and restriction of journalist and film makers is also on going.
Intimidation occurs in several forms.
First is direct confrontation. On my second day, I was standing on the side of Hwy heading toward Grand Isle when two large vehicles with flashing red and blue lights came charging up to me. At that moment, I was filming a pickup that had been submerged in the tidal marshes to the north of the road. I was standing on a fairly broad shoulder and was not overly close to traffic or any other harm. My vehicle was on the other side of the road, facing east. One police SUV drove directly to my car and the other came straight at me. This officer jumped out of his SUV and walked directly to me speaking loudly and holding his right hand to his weapon.
I have a camera. Television - standard size with a rather large lens, since I normally do bird filming. This lens of course is a zoom, and can go quite wide too. Moments before I had filmed a Snowy and Great Egrets at a culvert going under a road entering a fenced off but very open building. I have no idea what it is or was.
There was one other thing I found very relevant- a large squarish dome of foam swirling above an inlet submerged after rain. I found the motion to be totally intriguing.
The officer demanded "What are you doing here and do you have identification?"
"I need to see some identification now. You are in a high risk security zone and have a camera. After 9/11 you can not film here."
I bristled at first showing him what I was filming.
This was confusing and almost disorientating to me. I had been filming the day before well down the road in the same port area, where I stood less than 100 feet from an officer, looked like the same guy almost, and had my camera out as well as another crew with 4 members fully operating nearby. On that day I had been directly talking with these guys when asking about beach access. What was the difference?
In the end I provided drivers license and my business card to them. They wrote things down and then left.
But every time a cop then pulls in behind you- you are wondering what is going on? … and a little scared when you are doing nothing wrong.
Intimidation.
There are hundreds of officers doing what they are told and thinking they are doing the right thing for us. But who is in charge?
I was "guided" by other sheriff's deputies to do this, then… that and before long you have spoken to 5 people driven 25 miles and accomplished close to nothing. The light is now bad and the heat is intense. Louisiana is experiencing record heat this June. But a big company like CNN have one person -associate producers who do this thing all day long. They sort through this stuff. I am a one man band, certainly much more efficient but also in a situation like that which is a rarity in my life- less effective than the big boys.
The whole thing is either Chaos or total disorganization. Now we see the mixed up stupidity of state vs local vs federal vs corporate. ONe central authority please. One place for journalists to check in and get daily briefings, one place for press passes, one place for volunteers. They don't all have to be the Same place - just one centralized location.
I'll finish more on this in the next week and the entry will be called Final Straw.
Sunday, June 6, 2010
Prairie Chicken Snippet #1
This is a subject bound to develop into a major controversy. Wind developers seek areas which they consider worthless land. Of course, they want to have a peak amount of wind available so they can generate every available amp watt and volt possible.
I want to support "clean" energy but I also have several gut feelings that Big Money- that never seems to really be very ethical nor really very environmental is now securely in control.
Near Ellesworth, Kansas is a huge wind farm located at least 100 miles away from anywhere. Why? Why do development companies pick these areas which are relatively pristine, and begin the process of ruining them?
These huge wind farms cover 30-60,000 acres. The average person sees them, feels good about them, but does not understand the full implications.
If windfarms are situated on native grasslands- those areas can no longer be burned readily. Prairies need fire to prevent encroachment of trees.
We are not certain of all the implications for prairie chickens and honestly- the current data does not show a clear cut negative. But these studies are only very short term. They do not show the long term trends, which could take 20-30 year to become clear.
However, in my mind the placing of the huge wind farm on the ridges of Sullivan county where the last remnant populations of Greater Prairie Chickens are still hanging on, is foolish and short sighted.
Taller towers could be used to catch the same winds, while being placed on lower ridges or even in the farmed bottomlands which are not so critical to the prairie chickens. The maps of Charles Schwartz's original manuscript are conclusive. The density was highest of all in the northern Missouri counties on the long ridgetops with poor soils. These areas were NOT completely tree free and other grasses like bromegrass, red-top (Agrostis) and timothy were common. All of these are introduced grasses, but prairie chickens and the insects they needed to raise young did fine in them.
In our agricultural communities, trends can spread very quickly. If one farmer makes a bunch of money because he planted soybeans, the next year, 20 farmers will be planting soybeans because they need the success too. It is really hard to make money in farming. Of course, with so many more acres planted in the same crop -the prices rarely reach the same levels as before.
The point is long-term versus short-term.
Long-term the soils that form the basis of all agriculture are fairly poor in Putnam, Sullivan and northern Linn counties. They are well suited for growing grasses and are not productive for row crop agriculture. These counties in the 1940's were the stronghold for a species once numbering in the millions-The Greater Prairie Chicken. As the ornithologist, Mark Robbins recently wrote to me… "is everyone going to just stand around while the species goes extinct?"
May 29, 2010-
All of us, yes, all of us, have a space inside where -what ever we were trained with as right and wrong - lives.
So two things are important in this. One is what were we trained with. The other is how much have we listened to this space?
Other people will debate the divinity or the environment vs genetic attributes of this space- but for today, I don't really care about them. Because in the state of Louisiana the largest Oil-related environmental disaster to ever occur is going on before our eyes.
Many years ago, Neil Young came up with the lines in one of his songs "Even Richard Nixon has God's soul". I'd bet even that applies to Bernard Madoff or Tony Hayward. Each HAVE a touch of conscience. I'd bet they were at least exposed to either one of the worlds major religions and thus have at least a basic understanding that there are right things to do and wrong things to do.
Now Republicans are seeking to shift away the blame from the Bush Administration. But they have LONG been the party that seeks to allow businesses to do anything they damn well please.
Dick Chaney held a series of secret meetings widely known to be with energy developers and oil executives in the White House beginning in the first week of the Bush Administration.
How they can fool so many so often is what scares me. Because at this moment, inside of us all is the feeling of despair about this disaster.
And that is why this blog is named Darkest before the Dawn- we are just not that smart a species. Long Run vs Short Run. We are controlled by interests and economics that value only the short run.
Right now how many oystermen in Louisiana are thinking unlimited oil development offshore in waters over a few thousand feet is a really smart thing? What about the shrimpers? Then, what other kind of fishermen are out there in the Gulf? All of them have lost a way to make a living. All of them are now faced with understanding the overriding importance of the environment.
Some how, some way we need to begin to shift to a longer term outlook which puts Our environmental health at the forefront - before short term gain.
Economy is important but taking care of the environment and Long term goals are actually more important.
I hope to be leaving for the Gulf soon to film this in person.
Monday, May 31, 2010
Upper Texas Gulf Coast
In the whole of Birding, migration is a time of importance and sheer enjoyment.
The importance is because birds are moving from the wintering grounds into areas of habitat where over 1000's of years each species has found a way to maintain populations. The enjoyment comes from our ability to find so many diverse species in a short period of time and often in a concentrated location.
High Island is a bump on an otherwise flat plain of coastal marsh and formerly prairie. There are photos that point this out in a marvelous way during a difficult time. After September 2008, when Hurricane Ike cleaned off the Bolivar Peninsula, High Island was photographed so beautifully.
The point of this is to show that from the air, which of course is what migrants see, High Island is the first big clump of trees appearing along the coast. Consequently, when conditions create a difficult night of migration, tired birds head straight for the first trees available.
In the early 1970's, my childhood friend, Peter, my house-mate Bob and I all piled into my Ford Galaxie 500 for an April trip to Texas. As I recall now our timing was slightly early to the upper coast and we continued on to great birds in the Rio Grande Valley.
In 1975, I returned with my wife Katie and we hit a wonderful fall out primarily consisting of Hooded, Swainson's, Black & White, Orange-crowned, and other migrants in smaller numbers. This again was an early fall out being near the 15th of the month.
1976 the Beaumont convention of the American Birding association. Fantastic birding in both Boy Scout woods as well as Smith Oaks. I think the one photo in the ABA of Ken Kaufmann and myself (both of us at that time with very long beards and hair) was taken in either 'the Cathedral' or in a part of Smith Oaks.
This year I raced back down to make sure the film 'The Big Year' would have actual fallout coverage. The rains and storms pretty much passed over with one day of semi-inclement weather. Fallouts were good but noting rivals the numbers found in the mid 1970's and then a spectacular fallout in April 1996.
April of 1996 was amazing. I had just purchased my Sony Digital Betacam in December of 1995 selling the fantastic BVW-400a to go with widescreen 16x9. So with some cash in my pocket the good old Ford Aerostar van and a new camera, Texas in April is golden.
But at High Island, I was able to film such a great number of birds. For a day or so, it truly felt like 20 years earlier. Huge numbers of American Redstart, Tennessee, Black-throated, Green, Magnolia, Chestnut-sided and Warblers mixed with early migrants like Hooded, Black & White Warblers, and smaller numbers of Yellow-throated and Swainson's Warblers. Blackpoll and Blackburnian Warblers were fairly easily found too. Baltimore and Orchard Orioles, Rose-breasted and Blue Grosbeak and Yellow-breasted Chat competed with Gray Catbirds, Swainson Thrushes and other later migrants Scarlet and Summer Tanagers. This footage is now on line at the Macaulay Library - part of Cornell's famous Lab of Ornithology.
So this year, 2010 I had hopes of repeating that golden year. I noted the movement of what looked like a major frontal system pushing in. Leaving Kansas I was pummeled by winds late on the afternoon. I made it only to Oklahoma City before the drive and accumulation of other long days from spring filming took its toll. The next morning found me swamped in Texas traffic needing to be in the woods where I finally arrived. The birds had come in and many reported good numbers and variety. I filmed little dealing with the 1100 miles and a tired body and brain. All the gear and supplies were here now to be ready for the next days.
Unlike 1996 where huge numbers of birds were everywhere, instead, I found myself working a few locations and getting lucky in other ways. There is a Mulberry tree after one enters the gate and before you even get to the Houston Audubon Society's temporary office area. The morning light hits it quite early, the berries were full and ripe so many common and hardy migrants were actively feeding. I got quite excited to see the male Painted Buntings feeding alongside, Rose-breasted Grosbeak. Over the next couple of days, my goal became to film everything that I could in this one tree as the "job" called for birds dripping from trees.
Most migrants passed over High Island moving inland- which is a good thing- But I still filmed species in the one tree.
Late on the day before the afternoon I was planning to leave I wandered over to the old barn. I had been told that all the spaces to photograph had been reserved so I had avoided going over anyway. But, I noticed that some non-photographers were going in and out. I decided to take a peek too. All of the photographers had left- it was about 4 in the afternoon. So I had time to see what might come in.
I slid into the largest window I could find and settled in. Before the gentle afternoon and evening light faded into a darkness deeper than my camera and f/1.7 lens can handle I filmed no fewer than 8 Canada Warblers, 3 Warbling Vireos, a dozen Swainson's, 3 Wood and a Grey-cheeked Thrush, Blue-headed and single Ovenbirds, Black and White Warbler, Hooded Warbler, 2 Kentuckys, and ...
Nashville Warbler, Yellow-breasted Chat, Scarlet Tanager, Indigo Bunting.
Quietly, I filmed the best Great Crested Flycatcher ever, the best shots of Painted Buntings and so many other clips of bathing warblers it was astonishing. I never made it to Sabine Woods this spring.
I think experiencing the chaos and excitement of migration is one of the ultimate highs of Life.
But these amazing migration points offer so much more than just another place to take a lot of photographs of a lot of birds in a short period of time, or in my case a lot of footage. They offer absorption in a movement of life, a great awakening, the opportunity to feel the humility of understanding things we humans have no possibility to do.
There is nothing like High Island, Texas for birding during migration. Well, Magee Marsh, Ohio... Point Pelee and others feature fabulous numbers of birds too but an entirely different mix. So I will say it again- There is nothing like High Island, Texas for birding during migration.
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
May 2010
Thursday, March 4, 2010
30,000 b.i.f.
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Awards
Commuting part 1
Friday, January 29, 2010
New Ghost
Sunday, January 10, 2010
Search for Ivory Gull -pt 1
Ivory Gull show sketch
Background memories
12 years ago, June 30, 2006, I left Venezuela and returned to the US after having spent most of the year in South America. A job in the Arctic awaited me. That was exciting. The only fare I could afford, however due to the very low pay required me to drive to Ottawa, Canada. Packing in the airport parking lot was really fun. But a few hours later, I boarded a small but modern jet and flew first to Montreal and then to Kujuuaq and Iqaluit. Finally, we boarded a small to medium sized turbo prop and passing over vast glaciers, huge fiords and rugged mountains, we began to approach the small airport at Nanisivik. A short time earlier we had vanished into cloud cover, there we remained until after several passes it was certain that the clouds were too thick. We detoured for Pond Inlet only a short distance away. Radio communication indicated that the fog was growing thicker so the airline put us into a hotel.
The next morning’s light was considerably improved. Full sunshine covered the elegant dark blue bay where Inuit men stalked seal on the huge ice shelf. By the time to head to the plane, clouds were drifting in.
Arriving in Nanisivik would still not be a piece of cake. In talking to the pilots I was invited to come up to the cockpit. From behind the bank of instruments the two young men were flying a plane that looked like it belonged in WWII. However another wall of clouds loomed ahead. Holes did appear in the layers and there was a sufficient ceiling to get us underneath that particular day.
When we got to the ground. We were all to be piled into a van and driven down the mountain 23 some miles to Arctic Bay. My gear packed in shipping cases took up a ton of room.The tundra at this latitude is quite distinct. Let me remind you that trees and any vegetation taller than your ankles are hundreds of miles to the south. Not even down in the river valleys. Here on the ridges well above the bays and inlets the vegetation is sparse. 'Fields of Rocks' is more like it. But in places the numerous beautiful wildflowers peek through. Vast carpets of spongy green mosses cover miles of stunning landscapes. Every Rock is covered with lichens forming unique sometimes colorful patterns, Overall the effect is enchanting.
High Arctic Hotels have unique feel to them, especially the ones in the remote communities like Arctic Bay. Some look like a cheap double-wide trailer. Once inside the quiet is noticeable and it becomes apparent the insulation is for the extremes. Even in mid summer the heat may be running at times.
I immediately begin to explore. Snow Buntings call from the roofs of the buildings like they were the ecological replacement for Starlings. ?! Now there is an idea! By the grey bay, a few gulls fly by. THAYER”S Gulls! Wow this is going to be fun. A group of King Eiders are flying low over the water, now crossing a patch of tundra. Along this bay and the river to the east are broad valleys filled with lush mats of tundra, miles of rich green pocked with colors of the hundreds of wildflowers. In some areas there are carpets of Arctic Cotton Grass. Above the hiker who soon disappears in the vastness of these areas, tower peak of all sizes and shapes. On many - Glaciation is readily visible. The whole valleys are very U-shaped too another indication of glaciers.
After several days of waiting, the boat captain thinks we may be able to get out of the mouth of the bay. We meet at he bay and take a walk along the gravel. Only two boats have been launched so far, the rest remain hauled out up on the dark shore. Glowing blue icebergs fill the water. The captain and his two boys prepare everything and we head out. It is only a mile of so to the place to turn west toward the narrows that lead to the outer and much larger Inlet. But ice clearly blocks the area. Huge cliffs tower on the north shore and gulls are nesting there. This is at least some solace- even though Ivory Gulls will not nest in that habitat, other species that grab my interest will. So I will have something to do .
The weather has changed so in a few more days the bay will open the captain assures me. We return to the portion of the bay near town.
Until then I take long hikes filming sandpipers, jaegers and everything I can find within about 8 miles of town. One day I carried the tripod and camera, over 6 miles out to a spot where I had found a young Long-tailed Jaeger still a grey fuzz ball and guarded by its parents. In the long summer days without night, there is plenty of time for these things but it is also a very long hike back with the gear.
Finally the mouth of the bay opens, The captain sends word to be ready the next morning.
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
Some current notes on this entry-
I was the lead Wildlife videographer on the first part of a massive effort to locate a Ghost. Undertaken after two remarkable sightings along a small heavily timbered river in eastern Arkansas, Cornell Lab of Ornithology secretly led this massive undertaking to document a phantom that plagued and teased us.
My Montana plates drew many comments while we were still in this secretive phase (April 2004 to May 2005) of the search for the Ivory-billed Woodpecker and all I did was tell the truth- that I was making a wildlife documentary on the swamp and its' creatures. Although I had moments of what I felt was clearly the bird, extremely nearby on more than one occasion, I was never able to get even one frame of what was there. Only once did I see anything that I was nearly convinced was this super rare Campephilus species. That moment occurred while I was canoeing out of the swamp, fighting the current at the end of just one of many long days. However, two encounters with a bird that did the characteristic "double-rap" of this genus electrified me. The remaining encounter was hard to characterize but remains the most enigmatic of all.
Just because I was unable to obtain evidence of what I experienced and certainly heard, does not mean that there was no Ivory-billed Woodpecker in this area, at least in 2004-2005.
I know many skeptics have voiced opinions of doubt and derision. All I can say is that you were not in my body when I was experiencing these moments. If we had the capability of down-loading the direct experience, I know that each and every one of you would at least go… Hmm. Because if you were able to experience my experience,
February 16, 2007
Brinkley, Arkansas:
Leaving the motel, when David Luneau calls. He is going up the Bayou and wants to know If I will join him. I slow down and agree to meet him at the famous Hwy 17 bridge. My Ford Ranger pickup truck is a familiar sight there.
While waiting for his arrival, I visit an area where multiple trees have been killed forming an ideal spot for IBWO feeding. I flush 2 American Woodcocks in transit. David arrives and we launch in his boat. We freeze in the wind and cold temperatures. In one large tree, we find a new feeding trough along Stab Lake. Could be IBWO sign. Later I head to Chamber of Commerce to suggest a viewing tower. Finally, I return to Wattensaw Refuge to spend the evening sitting quietly by the best roost hole I have seen so far. The hole is at least a full year and possibly up to three years old. It is perfectly shaped and is VERY likely one created by an Ivory-bill. I sure learned a lot in Argentina studying the closely related Magellanic Woodpecker (Campephilus magellanicus).
I position myself in my camo layers about 150 feet away in cover and by the base of a tree. I find a way to get the camo on the camera and then hunker down - waiting. The sky has layers of thin clouds reducing visibility but also a deep orange and then magenta sunset. A Pileated Woodpecker cacks deep in the forest behind, and loud crash of a tree collapsing and then silence.
Unfortunately, no birds come to this wonderful looking cavity. The Bayou slowly grows darker and I pack up for the hike to the car in the gathering dusk.