Ivory Gull show sketch
Background memories
12 years ago, June 30, 2006, I left Venezuela and returned to the US after having spent most of the year in South America. A job in the Arctic awaited me. That was exciting. The only fare I could afford, however due to the very low pay required me to drive to Ottawa, Canada. Packing in the airport parking lot was really fun. But a few hours later, I boarded a small but modern jet and flew first to Montreal and then to Kujuuaq and Iqaluit. Finally, we boarded a small to medium sized turbo prop and passing over vast glaciers, huge fiords and rugged mountains, we began to approach the small airport at Nanisivik. A short time earlier we had vanished into cloud cover, there we remained until after several passes it was certain that the clouds were too thick. We detoured for Pond Inlet only a short distance away. Radio communication indicated that the fog was growing thicker so the airline put us into a hotel.
The next morning’s light was considerably improved. Full sunshine covered the elegant dark blue bay where Inuit men stalked seal on the huge ice shelf. By the time to head to the plane, clouds were drifting in.
Arriving in Nanisivik would still not be a piece of cake. In talking to the pilots I was invited to come up to the cockpit. From behind the bank of instruments the two young men were flying a plane that looked like it belonged in WWII. However another wall of clouds loomed ahead. Holes did appear in the layers and there was a sufficient ceiling to get us underneath that particular day.
When we got to the ground. We were all to be piled into a van and driven down the mountain 23 some miles to Arctic Bay. My gear packed in shipping cases took up a ton of room.The tundra at this latitude is quite distinct. Let me remind you that trees and any vegetation taller than your ankles are hundreds of miles to the south. Not even down in the river valleys. Here on the ridges well above the bays and inlets the vegetation is sparse. 'Fields of Rocks' is more like it. But in places the numerous beautiful wildflowers peek through. Vast carpets of spongy green mosses cover miles of stunning landscapes. Every Rock is covered with lichens forming unique sometimes colorful patterns, Overall the effect is enchanting.
High Arctic Hotels have unique feel to them, especially the ones in the remote communities like Arctic Bay. Some look like a cheap double-wide trailer. Once inside the quiet is noticeable and it becomes apparent the insulation is for the extremes. Even in mid summer the heat may be running at times.
I immediately begin to explore. Snow Buntings call from the roofs of the buildings like they were the ecological replacement for Starlings. ?! Now there is an idea! By the grey bay, a few gulls fly by. THAYER”S Gulls! Wow this is going to be fun. A group of King Eiders are flying low over the water, now crossing a patch of tundra. Along this bay and the river to the east are broad valleys filled with lush mats of tundra, miles of rich green pocked with colors of the hundreds of wildflowers. In some areas there are carpets of Arctic Cotton Grass. Above the hiker who soon disappears in the vastness of these areas, tower peak of all sizes and shapes. On many - Glaciation is readily visible. The whole valleys are very U-shaped too another indication of glaciers.
After several days of waiting, the boat captain thinks we may be able to get out of the mouth of the bay. We meet at he bay and take a walk along the gravel. Only two boats have been launched so far, the rest remain hauled out up on the dark shore. Glowing blue icebergs fill the water. The captain and his two boys prepare everything and we head out. It is only a mile of so to the place to turn west toward the narrows that lead to the outer and much larger Inlet. But ice clearly blocks the area. Huge cliffs tower on the north shore and gulls are nesting there. This is at least some solace- even though Ivory Gulls will not nest in that habitat, other species that grab my interest will. So I will have something to do .
The weather has changed so in a few more days the bay will open the captain assures me. We return to the portion of the bay near town.
Until then I take long hikes filming sandpipers, jaegers and everything I can find within about 8 miles of town. One day I carried the tripod and camera, over 6 miles out to a spot where I had found a young Long-tailed Jaeger still a grey fuzz ball and guarded by its parents. In the long summer days without night, there is plenty of time for these things but it is also a very long hike back with the gear.
Finally the mouth of the bay opens, The captain sends word to be ready the next morning.
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