Friday, January 29, 2010
New Ghost
Sunday, January 10, 2010
Search for Ivory Gull -pt 1
Ivory Gull show sketch
Background memories
12 years ago, June 30, 2006, I left Venezuela and returned to the US after having spent most of the year in South America. A job in the Arctic awaited me. That was exciting. The only fare I could afford, however due to the very low pay required me to drive to Ottawa, Canada. Packing in the airport parking lot was really fun. But a few hours later, I boarded a small but modern jet and flew first to Montreal and then to Kujuuaq and Iqaluit. Finally, we boarded a small to medium sized turbo prop and passing over vast glaciers, huge fiords and rugged mountains, we began to approach the small airport at Nanisivik. A short time earlier we had vanished into cloud cover, there we remained until after several passes it was certain that the clouds were too thick. We detoured for Pond Inlet only a short distance away. Radio communication indicated that the fog was growing thicker so the airline put us into a hotel.
The next morning’s light was considerably improved. Full sunshine covered the elegant dark blue bay where Inuit men stalked seal on the huge ice shelf. By the time to head to the plane, clouds were drifting in.
Arriving in Nanisivik would still not be a piece of cake. In talking to the pilots I was invited to come up to the cockpit. From behind the bank of instruments the two young men were flying a plane that looked like it belonged in WWII. However another wall of clouds loomed ahead. Holes did appear in the layers and there was a sufficient ceiling to get us underneath that particular day.
When we got to the ground. We were all to be piled into a van and driven down the mountain 23 some miles to Arctic Bay. My gear packed in shipping cases took up a ton of room.The tundra at this latitude is quite distinct. Let me remind you that trees and any vegetation taller than your ankles are hundreds of miles to the south. Not even down in the river valleys. Here on the ridges well above the bays and inlets the vegetation is sparse. 'Fields of Rocks' is more like it. But in places the numerous beautiful wildflowers peek through. Vast carpets of spongy green mosses cover miles of stunning landscapes. Every Rock is covered with lichens forming unique sometimes colorful patterns, Overall the effect is enchanting.
High Arctic Hotels have unique feel to them, especially the ones in the remote communities like Arctic Bay. Some look like a cheap double-wide trailer. Once inside the quiet is noticeable and it becomes apparent the insulation is for the extremes. Even in mid summer the heat may be running at times.
I immediately begin to explore. Snow Buntings call from the roofs of the buildings like they were the ecological replacement for Starlings. ?! Now there is an idea! By the grey bay, a few gulls fly by. THAYER”S Gulls! Wow this is going to be fun. A group of King Eiders are flying low over the water, now crossing a patch of tundra. Along this bay and the river to the east are broad valleys filled with lush mats of tundra, miles of rich green pocked with colors of the hundreds of wildflowers. In some areas there are carpets of Arctic Cotton Grass. Above the hiker who soon disappears in the vastness of these areas, tower peak of all sizes and shapes. On many - Glaciation is readily visible. The whole valleys are very U-shaped too another indication of glaciers.
After several days of waiting, the boat captain thinks we may be able to get out of the mouth of the bay. We meet at he bay and take a walk along the gravel. Only two boats have been launched so far, the rest remain hauled out up on the dark shore. Glowing blue icebergs fill the water. The captain and his two boys prepare everything and we head out. It is only a mile of so to the place to turn west toward the narrows that lead to the outer and much larger Inlet. But ice clearly blocks the area. Huge cliffs tower on the north shore and gulls are nesting there. This is at least some solace- even though Ivory Gulls will not nest in that habitat, other species that grab my interest will. So I will have something to do .
The weather has changed so in a few more days the bay will open the captain assures me. We return to the portion of the bay near town.
Until then I take long hikes filming sandpipers, jaegers and everything I can find within about 8 miles of town. One day I carried the tripod and camera, over 6 miles out to a spot where I had found a young Long-tailed Jaeger still a grey fuzz ball and guarded by its parents. In the long summer days without night, there is plenty of time for these things but it is also a very long hike back with the gear.
Finally the mouth of the bay opens, The captain sends word to be ready the next morning.
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
Some current notes on this entry-
I was the lead Wildlife videographer on the first part of a massive effort to locate a Ghost. Undertaken after two remarkable sightings along a small heavily timbered river in eastern Arkansas, Cornell Lab of Ornithology secretly led this massive undertaking to document a phantom that plagued and teased us.
My Montana plates drew many comments while we were still in this secretive phase (April 2004 to May 2005) of the search for the Ivory-billed Woodpecker and all I did was tell the truth- that I was making a wildlife documentary on the swamp and its' creatures. Although I had moments of what I felt was clearly the bird, extremely nearby on more than one occasion, I was never able to get even one frame of what was there. Only once did I see anything that I was nearly convinced was this super rare Campephilus species. That moment occurred while I was canoeing out of the swamp, fighting the current at the end of just one of many long days. However, two encounters with a bird that did the characteristic "double-rap" of this genus electrified me. The remaining encounter was hard to characterize but remains the most enigmatic of all.
Just because I was unable to obtain evidence of what I experienced and certainly heard, does not mean that there was no Ivory-billed Woodpecker in this area, at least in 2004-2005.
I know many skeptics have voiced opinions of doubt and derision. All I can say is that you were not in my body when I was experiencing these moments. If we had the capability of down-loading the direct experience, I know that each and every one of you would at least go… Hmm. Because if you were able to experience my experience,
February 16, 2007
Brinkley, Arkansas:
Leaving the motel, when David Luneau calls. He is going up the Bayou and wants to know If I will join him. I slow down and agree to meet him at the famous Hwy 17 bridge. My Ford Ranger pickup truck is a familiar sight there.
While waiting for his arrival, I visit an area where multiple trees have been killed forming an ideal spot for IBWO feeding. I flush 2 American Woodcocks in transit. David arrives and we launch in his boat. We freeze in the wind and cold temperatures. In one large tree, we find a new feeding trough along Stab Lake. Could be IBWO sign. Later I head to Chamber of Commerce to suggest a viewing tower. Finally, I return to Wattensaw Refuge to spend the evening sitting quietly by the best roost hole I have seen so far. The hole is at least a full year and possibly up to three years old. It is perfectly shaped and is VERY likely one created by an Ivory-bill. I sure learned a lot in Argentina studying the closely related Magellanic Woodpecker (Campephilus magellanicus).
I position myself in my camo layers about 150 feet away in cover and by the base of a tree. I find a way to get the camo on the camera and then hunker down - waiting. The sky has layers of thin clouds reducing visibility but also a deep orange and then magenta sunset. A Pileated Woodpecker cacks deep in the forest behind, and loud crash of a tree collapsing and then silence.
Unfortunately, no birds come to this wonderful looking cavity. The Bayou slowly grows darker and I pack up for the hike to the car in the gathering dusk.